This road is not child’s play, but it will take you past some aftermost spectacular scenery in India. Because it’s a strategic road, it’s tended round the clock, but there are always sections that are broken, crisscrossed by glacial streams or blocked by landslides. This makes an SUV the only sensible option. Also remember that the last fuel pump before Leh is at Tandi- some 370 km away. Carry extra fuel in cans. Hairpin bends and very narrow sections are all part of the fun and should you go off the road, it’s a very long and uninterrupted way down.
Starting from Manali and past the Rohtang La, the road descends to the Chandra valley and goes past Gramphu (where a road forks to Spiti) before meeting the Chandra River at Khoksar. You follow the northern slopes to Tandi where the Chandra and Bhaga rivers meet. I Repeat, this is your last chance fuel stop before Leh. The road continues north along the Bhaga valley to Keylong. Now well into the Pir Panjal. You pass Darcha and the army post of Zingzingbar. Baralacha La is the spectacular double pass that forms the head of three valleys: Bhaga, Chandra and Yunan. This is also where mountain sickness will raise its ugly head and by the time you get to Sarchu you’ll be more than ready to plop into the tents for the night.
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The next morning’s drive goes through mind-blowing terrain with wind-eroded mountainsides and cloudless skies. The fascinating more plain is a 45-km long plateau surrounding by rolling hills and snow-capped Himalayan peaks. You might sight the wild ass, the rare blue sheep and marmots here. The run up to Tanglang La makes your head spin as you climb up to 5,328 m. from here on it’s a straight run to Leh.
DISTANCE 461 km JOURNEY TIME two days
WHERE TO STAY There is plenty of tented accommodation in Sarchu ($10- $30 per head). The pricier camps run by Amtrex and Rashpian offer synthetic sleeping bags and even have attached loos. The HPTDC campsite has four-man tents. If you can’t make it to Sarchu, Jispa and Darcha have teahouses where you could stay. Remember that there are chances you may get to Sarchu by 3pm, but don’t push on. The next place to stay is at Pang, 71 km away
WHERE TO EAT Shepherd Dhabas at Darcha, Sarchu and Pang have basic fare: daal rice, omelettes, chowmein and rajma
TIPS to combat altitude sickness drink plenty of water, avoid oily food, and don’t smoke after Keylong. Eating garlic also helps. Fill your fuel tank and spare cans at Manali and top up again at Tandi.
